Just to the south of Madrid lies a royal palace built beside the Tagus and Jarama rivers. The surrounding country side is barren and dry, so the palace and huge gardens seem like an oasis. It was easy to imagine monarchs seeking retreat here, although nowadays the adjoining town is choked with traffic. As we wandered through the largely deserted palace and gardens (more guards than tourists), I was reminded of tourist Noosa: few people partaking in the principal attraction (the surf) while most drive around, shop and eat.